Head Framing Nailer
Head Framing Nailer
Cabinet Building Basics for Diy'ers
From dressers and vanities to kitchen and bath designs, building great cabinets means knowing the basics.
Regardless of whether you are building a stereo cabinet or dresser, a kitchen cabinet or bathroom vanity, basic cabinet construction is the same. A cabinet or furniture piece consists of the carcass or case with two sides, bottom and top, a back and a front. The front may contain drawers, doors or shelves or combinations of the three. Several variations may be used in the construction.
The carcass construction can be separated into three types: leg-and-rail, frame-and-panel, and box or case. Leg-and-rail construction is found on chairs, tables, benches, stools and on some furniture such as chests.
Frame-and-panel construction is used to make up the component parts of many types of furniture including the sides, doors and interior web frames with dust panels that are used on many fine, hand-built pieces of furniture.
Box or case construction is the basic design of dressers, buffets, desks and chests, as well as kitchen cabinets and bathroom vanities.
The simplest case construction is a box made of plywood. These can be softwood or hardwood plywood, and they can be painted or stained and varnished. Particle board, finished on one or two sides, is a common material for construction of some cabinetry. A case can also be constructed of solid wood, but these days solid wood is used only on small pieces or for extremely fine furniture.
The simplest cabinetry is a box construction such as a kitchen cabinet. Shown is the typical construction dimensions of an applied-facer kitchen cabinet base.
Kitchen Cabinet Case Construction
Both upper and lower cabinets have the same basic construction details. On the lower cabinet, the first step is to cut the two sides. Incidentally, you can construct a custom kitchen cabinet to fit any space, rather than the small individual sections joined as with purchased cabinetry. Or you can make up smaller units and join them in the same fashion. If a side is to be concealed against a wall, that side can be made of more economical plywood. The exposed side should be cut from a good hardwood- or smooth softwood-surfaced plywood.
This is the typical construction of an upper kitchen cabinet with applied facer.
The following is the simplest method of constructing, using glue and finish nails that are then set below the surface and the holes filled with wood putty. Cut a 1/4-by-1/4-inch rabbet in the inside back edge of each side piece for the cabinet back. The bottom shelf is raised above the floor on most cabinets to create a “toe-space” or kick board. Locate the position of the bottom on the side pieces and mark the kick board cut-out on each cabinet side. Cut using a saber saw.
In most instances the bottom front facer is 1-inch in width, allowing for a 1/4-inch lip to protrude down into the toe space. Mark this location and then use a carpenter's square to mark a line for the bottom. Cut the bottom 1/4-inch narrower than the sides, and then fasten the bottom in place with glue and finish nails, making sure it is aligned with the squared marks. Install a nailing-strip at the top back. Cut this to fit between the two sides and fasten in place with glue and finish nails. Cut the back to the correct size from 1/4-inch plywood or hardboard and, with the case lying face down, lay the back in place. Use a carpenter's square to make sure the case is square, and then fasten the back in place with 1/2-inch staples and an air nailer, or with 3/4-inch coated nails.
First step is to assemble the basic box, in this case of plywood, with glue and screws or nails.
Cut the side facers first. Apply glue to the case edge.
Turn the case upright and you're ready to install the facings. Cut and install any dividers of shelves. The simplest method, especially for overlap doors, is to install veneer tape over the plywood edges. These edges must first, however, be sanded smooth. A more traditional method is to install individual facer strips over the front edges of the case. These normally fit flush with the outside edges of the case, but overlap the inside edges.
Cut the two side casings first, fitting them flush with the upper end of the sides and the lower edge of the toe space. Fasten these in place with glue and No. 6 finish nails. Then cut the lower facer to fit between the two side facers, ensuring the correct width to match the top edge of the bottom shelf and the bottom edges of the toe spaces on the sides. To cut to length, cut one end smooth and square, then hold it in place and use a sharp pencil to mark the length. Cut the pieces square using a fine-toothed blade in a radial arm saw. Glue in place and fasten with No. 6 finish nails into the case-bottom edge. Use No. 8 finish nails through the side facings into the sides to further secure in place. Cut the top facing in the same manner, ripping to width, and then cutting to length. All facers should have their edges jointed smooth.
Align the facer flush with the case edge and fasten in place with finish nails.
Set the nail heads slightly below the wood surface.
Then measure the upper facer to fit precisely between the two side facers.
In this case the top facing is fastened between the two side facings with glue and No. 8 finish nails through the edges of the side facings into the ends of the top facing. If the cabinet has drawers, cut facers and install in the same manner. Cut door and drawer dividers to fit between the drawer bottom facer or facers and the upper or lower facer as needed. These can be anchored in place with toenail-driven, self-starting wood screws in countersunk holes, with glue and finish nails, or with glue blocks from the backside. Wood strips 3/4-by-1 1/2-inches are fastened inside the front and back, and to the sides at the top for anchoring a countertop in place.
Use a fine-toothed saw and make a square cut so there is no opening in the joint.
Nail the top facer in place, and then install the bottom facer in the same manner.
Install the divider facers in the same manner.
Anchor the ends of the facers with No. 8 finish nails through their mating facers.
At this point the cabinet bottom is ready to be installed. If plumbing is to be installed for a sink, and electrical connections for a disposal are needed, measure and cut the openings at this time. Then place the cabinet in position. The cabinet must be level in all directions. Use a four-foot level to determine level and wood shingles as shims to ensure a level unit. Locate the studs in the wall and fasten the cabinet in place with screws through the rear top nailing strip. The cabinet back can also be fastened to the wall with screws into the studs. Build the countertop and install.
Upper cabinets are constructed in the same basic manner, using box or case construction for the sides, bottom and a 3/4-inch plywood top. In this case the sides, top and bottom all have 1/4-by-1/4-inch rabbets ripped in their inside edges for the plywood or hardboard back. The facings are cut and installed in the same manner. Upper cabinets are anchored to the wall with a nailer strip at the top and through the back into the studs, as well as with screws through the back into the studs. Homemade cabinet jacks of 2-by-4's with shingle wedges can be used to temporarily hold the upper case up in position and help level and plumb it until you can get it fastened solidly in place.
Set the nails slightly below the surface.
Then fill all nail holes flush with wood putty.
Vertical facers are often anchored with counterbored screws from the inside edges.
A more intricate form of construction involves creating a facing frame of mortise and tenons joints. The front facing frame is then anchored to the case sides, top and bottom with glue blocks and countersunk wood screws from the inside or with glue and biscuit joints. This totally eliminates the nail holes that must be filled and is the best method for fine furniture cases.
Fine furniture often consists of a case with an assembled facer frame fastened over the front edge of the case. Mitered corners add to the fine construction.
Another form of construction consists of legs-and-rails with panels. The legs-and-rails are assembled with mortise-and-tenon or dowel joints. The panels are held in rabbets.
Frame-and-Panel Construction
With this type of construction, the corner posts of the assembly, which may also be the assembly legs, are fitted with panels. The frame consists of rails and stiles fastened together with mortise and tenons or dowels. The corner posts or stiles may be rabbeted or dadoed to accept the panels, or the panels may be held in place with dowels or biscuits. This is a very popular method of constructing small chests and tables, as well as larger pieces of fine furniture. The panel may be constructed of thinner, or thicker, stock that is shaped at the edges.
The inside framing on built-ins and simple furniture can consist of shelving standards with adjustable wooden shelves, or wooden shelf strips can be used to support permanently located shelves. Drawers can use metal slide systems. On fine cabinetry and furniture, however, the inside construction is as important as the outside because the inside framing not only provides for drawers and shelves, but also provides strength. Drawers are often supported by inside wooden partitions called web frames. Solid stock or plywood may be used, but they add a great deal of weight. Open frames are commonly used. If the frames are fitted with thin wood panels they are called dust panels. Dust-panels and web-frames are marks of quality furniture. They are always used on desks or bureaus with locked drawers; otherwise you could remove an upper drawer and get into the contents of the drawer below it.
Many fine furniture constructions use web frames with dust panels between the drawers.
These frames are normally assembled with mortise-and-tenon joints, and with dadoes for the thin wooden dust panels. The web frames may be held in place with glue and nails or screws. More often, the frames are fitted into rabbets or dadoes in the sides of the case and glue blocks used for support under the frame pieces at the back. Although the dadoes in the sides of the case could be the full thickness of the frame pieces, it is best to rabbet the frame edges and cut a narrower dado joint to provide more gluing surface and a stronger joint. A dovetail joint is the strongest for this type of unit; however, the frames must slide in from the front. When a frame-and-panel construction is used for the sides of the case as well, the web frame may be fitted with stub mortise-and-tenons.
If the front edge of the frame is also to act as a drawer-front facing, it is covered with hardwood to match the exterior of the project. Otherwise the frame is concealed behind the drawer fronts. If the frames are long, as on buffets, they should have a middle supporting rail or even two supporting rails if necessary.
Doors and Drawers
Doors and drawers can be overlap, lip or flush. Overlap doors and drawers have the entire front thickness exposed. These are often used on “Euro” style kitchen cabinets and bathroom vanities. Lip doors and drawers normally have a 3/8-by-3-inch lip or rabbet around all edges. This allows for using 3/8-inch lip hinges for installing the doors. Flush doors and drawers are fitted with their fronts flush with the case facings. These require great care in building and installing. Flush doors don't seal off the cabinet as well as overlap or lip doors.
Shown are common door examples.
Door fronts may be made of solid wood or 3/4-inch plywood. The outer edges may be left square on overlap doors, but are commonly rounded on lip doors. Drawers are commonly made of solid wood, sometimes of plywood.
Finer furniture, however, often utilizes frame-and-panel construction for the doors and sometimes for the drawers. Or the drawers may be solid wood with shaped fronts. The frame-and-panel doors consist of two uprights, called stiles, and two horizontal pieces, called rails. Some doors also have a third horizontal piece, or cross rail, in the middle. The frame pieces have dadoes cut along their inside edges for panels. Or a rabbet may be cut along the inside edges of the frame, in which case the panel is held in place by molding. The inside edge of the frame is called “sticking.” It can be left flat or shaped, or provided with attached decorative molding. A molded sticking adds to the strength of the frame structure.
Frame-and-panel doors may be made in several ways. The simplest is to cut dadoes in the frame pieces then dowel and glue the frame pieces together, inserting the panel in place as you assemble the frames. Or the frame can be assembled with mortise-and-tenon joints. The best method, however, is to use a router or shaper to create shaped stickings. This creates a shaped joint and provides a larger glue surface, as well as a decorative frame edge.
The panels inserted into the frames can be thin plywood panels or solid wood with their edges shaped. The top of the frame and panel can be left straight, or an arched panel and top rail may be created on a shaper or with a router.
Creating cabinetry, whether building your own kitchen cabinets or a fine piece of furniture is a rewarding task. Start with simple box construction and work your way toward the more complicated construction as you gain experience and tools.
Doors and frame-and-panel construction often consist of shaped bead and ogee edges with flat or shaped panels. These can be cut with a router or shaper.
About the Author
Monte Burch is a representative of Campbell Hausfeld. Campbell Hausfeld offers a complete selection of air compressors, pressure washers, air tools, air nailers, paint sprayers and welders.
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 Bostitch F21PL Round Head 1-1/2-Inch to 3-1/2-Inch Framing Nailer with Positive Placement Tip and Magnesium Housing List Price: Sale Price: $204.74 You save: $124.26 (38%) Eligible for free shipping!Availability: Usually ships in 3-4 business days See Reviews For This Product DescriptionThe BOSTITCH F21PL is a 21° plastic collated framing nailer that converts into a metal connector nailer in just seconds! This extraordinary design drives framing nails between 2in. and 3 1/2in. in length (.113-.162). The tool includes an interchangeable tip for driving metal connector nails (1-1/2in. to 2-1/2in. long) precisely into hardware such as hurricane ties and joist hangers. You get the benefit of two tools in one; no other competitive framer can match these features. The F21PL provides a lightweight, magnesium housing (weighing only 8.1 pounds) and touts 1050 in/lbs of driving power to tackle even the toughest engineered lumber applications. Its adjustable push-button depth guide sets nails to desired depths quickly and conveniently. Additionally, the F21PL features a unique 16in. layout indicator for achieving the correct distance between studs in a matter of seconds without the interru The Bostitch F21PL Round-Head Framing Nailer is the ideal tool for framing, sheathing, subflooring, and bracing jobs. Perfect for professionals and weekend warriors alike, this nailer features a strong, lightweight magnesium body, quick-change nosepieces for plastic-collated and metal-connector nails, a 16-inch layout indicator, and more.The Bostitch F21PL Round-Head Framing Nailer At a Glance:1,050 in./lbs. of driving powerQuick-change nosepieces for framing and metal connector nailsPatented push-button adjustable nail depthRecommended for use with HurriQuake nailsUnbeatable power-to-weight ratio helps you complete all-day jobs. View larger.2.0" to 3.5" 21-degree nails are ideal for framing jobs. Designed to Match the Task at HandThe recommended tool for use with HurriQuake disaster-resistant nails, the F21Pl has a patented feature that lets you set nail depth with the simple push of a button. For further convenience, quick-change nosepieces let you switch from plastic-collated framing nails to metal connector nails in seconds.The high-capacity magazine holds up to 60 plastic collated 21-degree framing nails (2.0-3.5 inch) or 60 metal connector nails (1.5-2.5 inch). Its 16-inch layout indicator, located on the magazine, lets you know at a glance the correct distance between studs.And with an adjustable rafter hook, you can conveniently hang the nailer on joists and rafters during work breaks.Best-in-Class Power-to-Weight RatioThe magnesium construction of the F21PL Round-Head Framing Nailer means this tool is light enough to use all day, while still being strong enough to reliably use again and again. It also means that this tool has the best power-to-weight ratio in its class: 1,050 in./lbs. to 8.1 pounds.The Bostitch F21PL Round Head Framing Nailer works with a standard air compressor and is backed by a seven-year limited warranty.About BostitchStanley-Bostitch manufactures top-quality, innovative fastening tools and fasteners for industrial, construction, and home-improvement applications. Products include pneumatic staplers and nailers; compressors; manual staplers and tackers; coil-fed screw systems; rivet tools; glue guns; a broad assortment of collated nails, screws, staples and specialty fasteners in a variety of materials and finishes; and carton-closing staplers--many of them industry firsts.What's in the BoxFraming nailer and two quick-change nosepieces. Features
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 Hitachi NR83A2 Round Head 2-inch to 3-1/4-inch Framing Nailer List Price: Sale Price: $268.25 You save: $354.40 (57%) Eligible for free shipping!Availability: Usually ships in 24 hours See Reviews For This Product DescriptionThe ability to fire plastic collated full round nails from 2 In. to 3-1/4 In. means you are getting the job done faster at an amazing 3 nails per second. The Hitachi NR83A2 3-1/4-Inch Round-Head Framing Nailer offers great performance in a compact, lightweight package. The NR83A2 is best used for floor and wall framing, truss buildup, window buildup, construction of subflooring and roof decking, wall sheathing, and mobile home and modular home construction. With tool-less depth-of-drive adjustment and durable construction, the NR83A2 is built for accurate results and heavy-duty use, making it an ideal tool for construction workers, contractors and carpenters.This framing nailer offers dual firing options and depth-of-drive adjustment for efficiency. View larger.NR83A2 3-1/4-Inch Round-Head Framing NailerTool SpecificationsNail Capacity64-70Magazine Angle21°Air Inlet3/8"Operating Pressure70-120 psiWeight7.9 lbs.Accessories Included1 Pair Safety GlassesAdjustable Depth of Drive for PrecisionThe NR83A2 features a convenient depth-of-drive adjustment knob located near the nose. Simply turn the dial half way to make quick, accurate modifications to the driving depth with no tools required.Quick-Load Magazine for Reduced DowntimeFor further convenience, the NR83A2 features a two-piece steel magazine that's designed for quick and easy loading of round-head plastic strip nails from two to 3-1/4 inches in length. The magazine has a nail capacity of 64-70 nails, which is equivalent to two nail strips. To replenish the magazine, simply pull back the nail feeder--the feeder will lock the nails in place.Dual Firing Options for Precise or Continuous DrivingFeaturing ANSI-compliant select actuation for making tool-less firing transitions, the NR83A2 Framing Nailer can be used for a variety of different applications. By simply sliding the selection control up or down with your hand, you can choose between intermittent and continuous firing. Intermittent firing is ideal for jobs that require precise driving, while the continuous setting can be used to fire nails at a rapid pace by using a bumping motion along the workpiece.Designed for Comfort and EfficiencyWell balanced at just 7.9 pounds and measuring 21-13/16 x 4-1/4 x 13-3/8 inches (LxWxH), the NR83A2 is easy to maneuver. Its soft rubber grip provides optimum control and extended comfort for all-day jobs.For further ease of use, a hardened toenail push lever will help the nailer stand up to wear and tear. And in case you get a jammed nail, the open nose design will make extraction a cinch.Designed with a 3/8-inch NPT thread air inlet, the NR83A2 requires 70-120 psi operating pressure to function properly. It takes in air at a rate of 0.064 cubic feet per cycle at 100 psi.The Hitachi NR83A2 Framing Nailer is backed by a five-year limited warranty.About Hitachi: A Tradition of InnovationHitachi Power Tools (Hitachi Koki USA, Ltd.) provides professional-grade power tools for a variety of applications, including woodwork, metalwork, concrete, drilling, cutting, and fastening. Hitachi is a leader in power tool research and development and has achieved many firsts in the power tool industry. Today, Hitachi continues the tradition of innovation and engineering with new features in addition to classic quality.What's in the BoxNR83A2 Framing Nailer and safety glasses.Lightweight with a soft rubber grip, the nailer is comfortable and easy to maneuver. View larger. Features
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B & C Eagle A3X131/22 Round Head 3-Inch-by-.131-Inch-by-20 to 22-Degree Plastic Collated Smooth Shank Framing Nail (500 per Box) List Price: Sale Price: $15.05 You save: $4.95 (25%) Eligible for free shipping!Availability: Usually ships in 24 hours See Reviews For This Product DescriptionB & C Eagle, 500 Count, 3" x .131, Smooth Shank, Brite, Plastic Collated, Framing Nails, With Full Round Head, Fits The Following Nail Guns: Hitachi Nr83a, Nr83a2, Nr83a2s, Nr90ac, Duo-Fast Cn350, Senco Sn60, Sn65, Makita An8300, An922, Porter Cable Fr350, Fr350a, Fr350mag, Max Sn890rh, Bostitch N88rh, N95rhn, F21pl, Bosch Sn350-20F, B&C Eagle Sn2290, Dewalt D51844, D51850, Rigid R350rha, Milwaukee 7100-20 & Most Other 20 To 22 Degree Full Round Head Framing Nailers. Features
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 Hitachi NV65AH 2-1/2-Inch Coil Siding Nailer List Price: Sale Price: $348.25 You save: $426.65 (55%) Eligible for free shipping!Availability: Usually ships in 24 hours See Reviews For This Product DescriptionThe NV65AH siding nailer is the recognized preferred siding nailer for james hardie fiber cement siding and building materials. It is compact and lightweight and is the ideal choice for siding applications. Lightweight and durable, the Hitachi NV65AH Siding Nailer is a contractor-preferred pneumatic tool with high-performance capabilities. An ideal tool for siding, fencing, decking, roof sheathing, and more, the NV65AH has everything you need, including a high-capacity magazine, tool-less depth adjustment, a 360-degree exhaust diverter, and a pneumatic drive system. And since it's compatible with wire- or plastic-coated nails of varying sizes, the NV65H is a flexible tool that can be used for a wide variety of applications.A high-capacity magazine and tool-less depth adjustment make this siding nailer top in efficiency. View larger.NV65AH Siding NailerTool SpecificationsNail Capacity200-300Magazine AngleWire: 16°Plastic: 15° Air Inlet3/8"Operating Pressure70-120 psiWeight4.6 lbs.Accessories Included1 Pair of Safety Glasses2 Hex Bar WrenchesAdded conveniences include an air deflector and the flexibility for a range of fasteners. View larger.Versatile Nailer Gets the Job Done QuicklyThe NV64AH is a versatile nailer that's compatible with both wire- and plastic-coated collated fasteners. It features a high-capacity magazine that accepts up to 300 1-1/2-inch to 2-1/2-inch-long nail coils with 0.099-inch diameters. The nailer's air inlet is 3/8 inch, and the ideal operating air pressure is 70-120 psi.For further flexibility and efficiency, the NV65AH has two firing options: intermittent and continuous. Intermittent firing lets you use the nailer's trigger to control firing, while continuous firing plants a nail each time the NV65AH's no-mar nose cap touches your workpiece--a great feature for covering large areas.For further convenience, nail-depth adjustments are quick and easy. Just turn the depth-adjuster knob to flush mount or countersink nails and get the right depth for your application.Air Deflector Adjusts Without ToolsThe NV64AH features an adjustable air deflector that rotates 360 degrees to direct exhaust in any direction you choose. What's more, no tools are required to adjust the air deflector--simply turn the top cover to the desired position.Designed for ManeuverabilityThe Hitachi NV65AH Siding Nailer is lightweight at just 4.6 pounds, so it's easy to maneuver. Its well-balanced design ensures easy one-handed operation, and the long-lasting leather grip keeps you comfortable and in control.The Hitachi NV65AH Siding Nailer measures 10-1/2 x 5-1/16 x 11-13/16 inches (LxWxH). It is backed by a five-year limited warranty.About Hitachi: A Tradition of InnovationHitachi Power Tools (Hitachi Koki USA, Ltd.) provides professional-grade power tools for a variety of applications, including woodwork, metalwork, concrete, drilling, cutting, and fastening. Hitachi is a leader in power tool research and development and has achieved many firsts in the power tool industry. Today, Hitachi continues the tradition of innovation and engineering with new features in addition to classic quality.What's in the BoxNV65AH Siding Nailer, safety glasses, and hex bar wrenches. Features
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 Hitachi NR90AEPR 3-1/2-Inch Full-Head Framing Strip Nailer List Price: Sale Price: $188.25 You save: $201.75 (52%) Eligible for free shipping!Availability: Usually ships in 24 hours See Reviews For This Product DescriptionNR90AEPR The NR90AE 3-1/2'' Round Head Framing Nailer is used for floor and wall framing, truss build-up, window build-up, construction of subflooring and roof decking, wall sheathing and mobile home and modular house construction. Features: -Well-balanced design and lightweight (7.5 lbs) for minimum user fatigue. -Powerful performance driving 2'' - 3-1/2'' fasteners into engineered lumber. -Selective actuation for either sequential or ''bump'' fire nailing with a simple flip of a switch for Tool - less transitions. -Anodized aluminum magazine designed with separate mounting bracket to prevent expensive repairs and replacements. -Tool-free depth of drive adjustment provides simplicity and flexibility for perfectly flush fastening in various materials. -Two step nail loading minimizes disruption, simply slide the nails into the magazine and pull back the feeder without the need for lock-out. -Non-slip grip for secure hold that stays a comfortable temperature in all seasons. Includes: -Safety Glasses. Specifications Features
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